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A tour of Edinburgh with Mary, Queen of Scots

Join us as Daniella Theis explores Edinburgh's fascinating streets with historian Rosemary Goring, visiting the sites central to Mary’s life – inspired by the Queen's final letter written hours before her execution.
Edinburgh Castle sits atop Castle Rock with greenery growing on the slopes and a park below.
Mary, Queen of Scots spent time at Edinburgh Castle for safety.

LATE one night, at 2am on February 8, from a sparse room that had become her prison cell for months, a woman penned her last words and final will.

“I am to be executed like a criminal”, she wrote to her brother-in-law.

Six hours later, she was dead; executed by her captors at only 44 years old and after 19 years in captivity.

The year was 1587, and the woman was Mary, Queen of Scots, who remains one of Scotland's most beloved but also most controversial figures.

A portrait of Mary showing her trademark auburn hair and in dark robes.
A portrait of Mary showing her trademark auburn hair.

More than four centuries later, traces of her life still exist in the places she moved through – if you know where to look.

Walking through Edinburgh’s cobbled Old Town, it isn’t hard to envision a life from centuries ago or to imagine Mary herself passing through these same streets.

A historic letter sits on a dark background. The pages are yellowed and the handwriting is in brown ink.
The last letter by Mary, Queen of Scots, written 439 years ago, is currently on display outside of Edinburgh for the first time.

This year, to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the National Library of Scotland, Mary's last letter is on display again, now at Perth Museum – the first time it has been shown outside Edinburgh – until April 26.

I have always been fascinated by Mary but, admittedly, had never spent time looking at her life in detail.

When I heard about the letter on display in Perth, it sparked a newfound interest and an opportunity for me to get to know Mary better.

Author Rosemary Goring and journalist Daniella smile for a selfie.
Author Rosemary Goring (L), who has written two books on Mary, and journalist Daniella (R).

Visiting sites with author Rosemary Goring

I met up with author Rosemary Goring in Edinburgh, the city Mary returned to reign after spending her childhood in France.

Before we hit the trail, I asked what is it that makes Mary’s legacy so enduring for so many.

A map of Edinburgh highlighting Edinburgh Castle, John Knox House and the Palace of Holyroodhouse.
A walk through Edinburgh and the sites that shaped Mary, Queen of Scots' legacy.

Why Mary, Queen of Scots matters

Partly, it is her dramatic backstory: only six days old when she became Queen of Scotland after her father’s death, sent to France to grow up in safety.

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