Skye's Coruisk House: A cosy coastal foodie retreat in Elgol

The road to Elgol feels like a slow unveiling of Skye at its most mystical.

My friend Jemima and I had travelled from Aberdeen that day, and as the single-track road wormed its way up a small slope – guarded on either side by curious, blinking sheep – it felt full of promise.

We passed the fog-draped Kilmarie Cemetery, which only added to the island’s sense of mystery.

Skye is a bucket-list destination at any time of year, and my November visit was neither marred by bad weather nor the overtourism that can plague the island in summer.

First impressions of Coruisk House, Skye

At the top of that slope, with dark hills looming across the water in the distance, we arrived at Coruisk House – a gleaming white, cosy haven on Skye’s southern coast.

The Elgol hotel is that brand of cosy that feels just as elegant as it does snug. With a restaurant celebrating Skye’s impressive local larder, a gorgeous clawfoot tub, and stunning views, it’s somewhere I can’t wait to return to.

Owner Claire Winskill greets us warmly and makes us feel at home, even though we’re a little unkempt after our long road trip from the Granite City.

Inside the Upper Steading Suite

We’re shown around the Upper Steading Suite where we’ll be staying, and inside there are all sorts of amenities to ensure our comfort.

Bathrobes are always a lovely touch, and my English friend is delighted by the taste of her first Tunnock’s chocolate wafer – these, alongside tea, milk, coffee and homemade tablet, are left for us to snack on.

The two-floor suite sleeps four, with two separate rooms with double beds, a living space downstairs, a bathroom, and a separate room which houses that green clawfoot tub, perfect for soaking in.

It’s all soft lighting, fur rugs and embroidered cushions: classic countryside chic, without a hint of tacky.

With your own key to the steading building, you feel as though it is entirely your own space – something most hotels fail to achieve, when you’re tripping over strangers in the hallway or hearing them chat outside your door.

Skye’s seafood at its best

We’ve arrived in the late afternoon, so it’s a quick freshen-up for dinner before we head to dine in the restaurant, just a few paces from the front door of the Upper Steading.

The restaurant’s chic décor continues with that bright, white, refreshing colour palette. There’s a hint of coastal here too, apt for a space that celebrates Skye’s bountiful seafood offering.

We dine with candles glimmering at our side, and with only one other couple in the dining room, it’s all very romantic.

We’re giggling a little at our poor boyfriends missing out on the trip, and vow to return with them in the future.

A small but exquisite cocktail list starts off our meal. Though I’m tempted by the aptly named Misty Isle Mule, I go for the French Martini, and gin-lover Jemima opts for the Gin Margatini. Mine is sweet and refreshing, and Jemima’s bursts with a moreish tang of lime.

Seafood sings on the tasting menu during our visit. Resident chef Iain Roden – who runs Coruisk House with Clare – is an artist in the kitchen, and several of his dishes leave us truly speechless.

The lobster and langoustine bisque is impossibly smooth and creamy, and plated beautifully.

I’m particularly wowed by the Sconser scallop, hand-dived by Coruisk House’s suppliers, David and Ben Oakes. It’s huge – it would fill my palm if I’d done something as indecent as pick it up off my plate.

Photographs don’t do justice to the size of this mighty, meaty and utterly delicious scallop, served with squid tartare and rich scallop coral sauce. It’s something you have to experience yourself.

The lamb shoulder is incredibly tender too; my mouth is watering just reminiscing about it. We finish our meal with a cheese board, served with chunky, homemade oatcakes that add a delightfully rustic touch to the elegant dining experience.

Cosy evenings by the fire

Just off the main restaurant, there’s a cosy little space with armchairs where you can retire after your meal next to the fire.

With fairy lights, fluffy cushions and wool blankets, settling in here with a good book – or some good whisky – would be like melting into a warm hug.

It’s also the perfect chance to meet Clare and Iain’s loveable labradors, who are some of the friendliest dogs I’ve ever met.

Breakfast at Coruisk House

The breakfasts at Coruisk House are just as remarkable as the dinner offering. There’s yoghurt, fresh fruit and pastries, homemade granola, butter, jams and juices, all served at your table.

You can opt for something hot too if you’re hungry enough. I go for the Scottish cooked breakfast (when in Rome), which comes with a poached egg – you can have your eggs however you like them – black pudding, sausage, bacon, tomatoes and mushrooms.

Things to do near Elgol and Coruisk House

Though we packed a lot into our stay at Coruisk House, the time spent at the Upper Steading and the hotel’s restaurant was wholly restful.

The painted white wood, soft fur rugs underfoot, warm lighting – and that beautiful tub – create a feeling of relaxation you can only get somewhere as remote as this.

I’m a countryside girl at heart, and it always feels like a breath of fresh air to get out of the city and pull on my walking boots.

The hotel is in an excellent position near Elgol: it’s a nine-minute drive to the scenic Elgol Beach, and just 16 minutes to the lengthy but rewarding hike up Blà Bheinn.

Both Clare and Iain are founts of knowledge and can recommend plenty of local outings and walks. If you want to stay somewhere that helps you experience all the excellence Skye has to offer, Coruisk House is the place for you.

Coruisk House, Elgol, Isle of Skye IV49 9BLL